Producciones de Arte y Pensamiento, S.L.
|Editorial||Olivares & Asociados SL|
|Year||August / 2007|
|Language||Spanish / English|
|Pages||From 160 to 200|
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EXIT # 27 analyses the representation of civil and military uniforms in photography, cinema and video from modernism to the present day.
In her editorial Do You Like Uniforms?, Rosa Olivares, director and editor of EXIT, reflects on how paradoxically the uniform creates identities and at the same time questions them. Patrizia Calefato, lecturer on Semiology at Bari University, Italy, writes in the main essay on the meaning of these garments and the way in which they have been used throughout history. Maria Luisa Frisa, director of the Fashion course at Venice University, deals with the contrast between nudity and clothing and the way in which the uniform has been used to symbolize authority and domination.Jennifer Park, historian, analyses the phenomenon of the fetishization of uniforms and looks at some of its essential icons. Stefan Haas, professor at Toronto University, considers how work clothing has evolved, from marking out the hierarchies in the civil service to being considered typical of certain professional sectors. Closing the number, the text byFrancisco Javier San Martín, lecturer on History of Art at the Basque Country University, takes us on a brief journey round the uses artists have put uniforms to.
Every article is accompanied by more than thirty images which create sequences that cover the four main themes of the issue: the military uniform, which includes photographs which go from the propagandistic military ceremonies of the North Korean regime, to portraits of American officials posted in Guantanamo, passing through the Soviet and Nazi regimes; the uniform as fetish, with representations of servants, sailors, nurses and schoolgirls; the civil uniform, with images of workers, prisoners, lawyers, athletes, protestors and clergy, and to finish with, portraits of artists in uniform.
Texts: Patrizia Calefato, Maria Luisa Frisa, Stefan Haas, Rosa Olivares, Jennifer Park, y Francisco Javier San Martín
Artists: Kenneth Anger, Eleanor Antin, Nobuyoshi Araki, Catherine Balet, Vanessa Beecroft, Andreas Böhmig, Marco Bohr, Sergey Bratkov, Larry Burrows, Philippe Chancel, Mat Collishaw, Marie Cosindas, Rineke Dijkstra, Slawomir Elsner, Mitch Epstein, Elliott Erwitt, Rainer Werner Fassbinder, Weng Feng, Roland Fischer, Joan Fontcuberta, Stuart Franklin, Charles Fréger, Anna Gaskell, Bruce Gilden, Marcelo Grosman, Neil Hamon, Lyle Ashton Harris, Claudio Hills, Evelyn Hofer, Pieter Hugo, Johannes Itten, Samir Karahoda, Misty Keasler, Immo Klink, Anastasia Koroshilova, Ingar Krauss, Hiroji Kubota, Nikki S. Lee, Ingeborg Lusher, Mike Mandel, Mateo Maté, Susan Meiselas, Boris Mikhailov, Lee Miller, Zwelethu Mthethwa, Adi Nes, Hein-Kuhn Oh, Catherine Opie, Martin Parr, Pino Pascali, Paolo Pellegrin, Pierre et Gilles, Richard Prince, Leni Riefenstahl, Aleksandr Rodchenko, Tomoko Sawada, Collier Schorr, Andres Serrano, Mikhael Subotzky, Fiona Tan, Frank Thiel, Jean-Baptiste Tournassoud, Patrick Tourneboeuf, Tseng Kwong Chi, Piotr Uklanski, Hentie van der Merwe, Camille Vivier, Gillian Wearing.